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That’s right. ‘Angkor Wat’ is the term scribbled on travellers’ bucket lists, but Angkor Wat – the prolific temple that features on the Cambodian flag – is one temple in the Angkor Complex, which actually consists of over 1000 temples.

I mean. That’s nuts.

Now, some of these are just rubbles of sandstone, but still. The word is Angkor is actually derived from a Sanskrit word that means ‘city’ – and Angkor is thought to be one of the world’s largest pre-industrial cities. Except it’s a city of temples. So in effect, you will be exploring the ruins of one of the world’s largest ancient cities, and the world’s largest religious complex to date.

Besides Angkor Wat, there’s Prasat Bayon (the one with all the faces),

Baphuon (the one that you can climb up in, but which doesn’t have the crazy queue that Angkor Wat has. And also the one with the enormous reclining buddha carved in it’s wall.),

Ta Prohm (the one overtaken by trees, famous from being featured in the Tomb Raider movie),

Preah Khan (equally overtaken by trees, but for some reason way less crowded),

and Neak Pean (the one where you have to walk across the water to a man-mad island).

And many many many more.

What to Expect at Angkor Wat: Prasat Bayon (the one with the faces)

Prasat Bayon: the one with the faces

What to expect at Angkor Wat: Baphuon (the one with the view).

Baphuon: the one with the view (but without the queue).

What to expect at Angkor Wat: Neak Pean (the one where you have to walk across water)

The road to Neak Pean (the one where you have to walk across water)

Whatto Expect at Angkor Wat: Preah Kahn (the one similar to the Tomb Raider one, but way less crowded).

Preah Kahn (the one similar to the Tomb Raider one, but way less crowded).

Which means:


Well, technically you could, but it would take you forever and you’d be sweating buckets in the 30+°C heat and almost-100% humidity. You can rent bicycles and cycle around, but I refer again to the above-mentioned climate.

Ideally, you should rent a Tuk-Tuk. It should cost you no more than $20 for the day and the pros are many:

  1. Shortening the time to get from temple to temple = more time to explore each temple.
  2. The drivers know the complex like the backs of their hands, taking the guess-work out for you. They’ll make sure you see everything you need to see, based on how many days you want to explore.
  3. The canopy over your head and the wind in your face offers a nice respite to the heat.

Where can I hire a Tuk-Tuk?

ANYWHERE. Literally anywhere. We flagged a tuk-tuk driver on our street, he named his price, we considered it, and off we went! They are also parked around the ticket office, and all the temples. At the end of the day we asked the driver if he wanted to take us around again the next day, and sure enough he was waiting for us outside our Airbnb at 4am like we asked.


Believe it or not, but Angkor Wat wasn’t only on your bucket list. This place is crowded. And even though the complex is sprawling, expect to see a lot of tourists at the larger temples, and especially at the Angkor Wat. So, in many cases, you’re gonna have to get creative with your angles if you want a photo without other people in it.

And don’t be mad! They are there to explore just like you! Just because you didn’t come in a tour bus doesn’t make you any less of a tourist than they are.

What to expect at Angkor Wat: Lots of tourists!

What to Expect At Angkor Wat: Lots of Tourists!

The amount of people that show up for sunrise is especially jarring.

So…How Do I Avoid All the People Then?

Well, like I said, the complex is massive and there are tons of temples, and you can go almost anywhere once you’re there. So ask the driver to take you to smaller temples, where you might find only two or ten other people, or just find the quieter corners and courtyards of the bigger ones.

It’s really hard to avoid the crowd at that quintessential Angkor Wat sunrise (post coming about this soon!) – nay, impossible. But what you could do, is head to the further temples right after sunrise, when everyone else is heading into the main temple. We did this, and found ourselves basically alone.

What to Expect at Angkor Wat: Avoid Crowds in quiet corners

A quieter courtyard at Angkor Wat, the main temple.

What to Expect at Angkor Wat: Find the quiet corners

Lots of quiet corners to be had


You’re gonna work up an appetite doing all that exploring. There is a pretty big food area in the Angkor Thom section (where Bayon, the one with the faces, and Baphuon, the one with the reclining Buddha, are). However, we really didn’t feel like hot food in the middle of a hot, sweaty day, so we opted for lots of fruit snacks from any of the many stalls set up around the temples. Or bring your own packed lunches!

What to Expect at Angkor Wat: Food

Freshly cut pineapples on-the-go!


Oh, BY THE WAY, Angkor Wat and the surrounding ruins are Buddhist temples. So expect to see some real life monks and DRESS FOR THE OCCASION. That means:

Cover your knees.

Cover your shoulders.

Wear loose-fitted clothing.

Don’t take any nude photos!? (Yes, this really happened…*face palm*).


The park is open the whole day – from 5am to 6pm – so if you are really pressed for time and you really only have a day, you can definitely do it! Express this to your tuk-tuk driver and he will take care of you.


Beyond the day pass ($37), you can also buy a 3-day ($62) and a seven-day ($72) pass and the days don’t have to be consecutive. And you SHOULD definitely spend more than a day in Angkor. We only had a weekend, so we bought the 3-day pass and spent two days at the park, and we were completely satisfied with that. However, we did feel like we could probably spend a whole week there and never have to see the same thing twice.


It’s the world largest religious structure, built in the 12th-century to honour the Hindu god Vishnu; the temples in Angkor are littered with statues and covered in relief carvings of warriors, demons, royalties, gods. So expect to be confronted with a whole lot of history of which you probably know very little about.

For this reason you can hire personal guides for the day – this is on top of what you will pay your driver. The guides, like the drivers, are everywhere. We didn’t do this! Instead, we watched some documentaries about Angkor Wat the day before, and ended up exploring with a general overview in mind. I can see how having a guide would be a valuable addition, but we have traveled enough to know that most of the time we are just not guide-people. We enjoy it more when we get to explore at our own pace.

But it would definitely be a better experience if you know something about what you are encountering.

What to Expect at Angkor Wat: Art

12th-century reliefs


Ticket checks are done at all of the big temples, so DO NOT THROW YOUR TICKET AWAY! Keep it safe and close at hand.


Unfortunately, Angkor Wat is one of those places where you’ll see little girls not in school selling cheap souvenirs instead.


Angkor Wat is basically being swallowed by the Cambodian forest, so there are a ton of monkeys monkeying around. They are super cute, but be careful and don’t get too close when you take that photo! They are very much used to all the tourists, and they get super cheeky – one even snatched my water bottle from right under my nose; I wouldn’t be surprised if I heard that they were grabbing cellphones from tourists’ hands!


Most of all, expect to be inspired by the natural beauty of the park. Rivers, forests, lakes, lily pads, butterflies, the dappled sunshine through the forest canopy – we couldn’t believe our eyes. It is definitely one of the most beautiful places we have ever been. And when you can get away from the crowd – and it’s completely possible – it’s especially breathtaking.


South African Safari: A Weekend in Nambiti

The sun was setting on our first safari drive; dusk was changing to darkness quickly and the warm evening was turning into a chilly night. We hadn’t seen any big cats, but we had basically seen everything else – hippos yawning boisterously, elephants mock-charging our vehicle, even a monitor lizard skulking in the murky shadows – so we were happy to head back to camp. But then our guide received the call, and after confirming this and that in ranger-code, we were told that we are not going home, we are going to look for lions…in the dark. 

We saw them up on the horizon first, when the sky was still dark navy, right before it would go black. And even from far away, they were so big that we made out their black silhouettes against the blue. And then those two pairs of red eyes glinting in the distance when our red spotlights pass over them. They moved slowly down towards the vehicles, with heavy intention; we watched and held our breaths and saw flashes of eyes as they moved right in between our car and the one behind us. Then they reclined slowly right next to us in our pool of red light; two male lions yawning wide and rolling over once or twice before getting up and moving along.

We drove back to the lodge with our jaws hanging open. We have seen lions on game drives before – dozing off or lazing around in the afternoons – but to see them prowl like that at night, to see them moving from the dark wilderness over there to the bushes and bristles right beside your feet, is a whole new way of seeing.

Safari: Hippo yawning

Nambiti Safari: Elephant encounter

Nambiti Safari: Giraffe

Nambiti Safari: Zebras

Something is going seriously right in your life when the first coffee of your day is out in the South African bush, with elephants, rhinos and countless impala grazing all around you. Especially when you follow that cup of coffee with some face-to-face encounters with herds of elephants and buffalo. And maybe the true mark of an immersive experience is that none of us have photos of these encounters. Because when an elephant walks right up to you, you stay very still, and when he turns his head to look into your eyes, all you can do is be captivated by his gaze.

And there is little left to say after a lion looks you right in the soul as he passes by, so close he may as well have rubbed his scent off your leg.


Nambiti Safari: Coffee time

Nambiti Safari: lions

South African Safari: Elephants up close

Nambiti Reserve & Ndaka Safari Lodge

Nambiti Reserve is private game park in eastern South Africa, just a few hours’ drive from Durban, and it is the perfect place for safari getaway, especially if you are only going for weekend. It is small enough so that you are pretty much guaranteed to see something besides antelope, but big enough so that you may drive for a long time without seeing anything (besides impala, of course…everyone’s favourite). But even besides the game, even if you go out on a drive and don’t see anything, it is still the perfect place for a safari getaway because of the incredible lodges on site – like Ndaka Safari Lodge, where we spent our 5-year-anniversary weekend.

Ndaka made our 2017 favourites list as my favourite hotel of the year, but it easily takes the cake for my favourite accommodation ever. Think waking up from your post-game-drive, mid-morning nap to towering giraffe striding across your ‘front yard’,  or soaking in a bath tub (or outdoor shower) with views of grazing zebra and wildebeest. And they don’t only take care of you at the lodge either. The vehicles are all equipped with cozy blankets and protective raincoats, and sometimes my favourite part of the drive was when our guide Ngcebo parked the car in front of a waterfall, or at a dam, or on the hilltops overlooking the lush valleys when we would watch the sun rise or set in that silence you only get in the wild bush – with the drink of your choice in your hand.

Nambiti Safari: Ndaka Lodge

Nambiti Safari: Ndaka Lodge

Nambiti Safari: Ndaka lodge 'back yard'

Nambiti Safari: Sundowners

Nambiti Safari: Sunset

I mean, is there anything better than watching the sun set behind what seems like the end of the world with some wildebeest teetering on the edge of it, WITH a glass of South African wine?


And during our penultimate drive we had one of the most magical experiences. It happened right around dusk. The sky was pink and on the horizon, far out over some valleys and hilltops, darker clouds were flashing with lightning every now and then, while the wind started to whip around us. And there they were again – those two incredible male lions. And once again, we held our breaths with every muscle they moved. They were looking into the distance, the wind whipping their manes around, and their eyes were fixed on a herd of impala down the hill. And as the wind rushed and the lightning lit up, it was like these lions were all that mattered. We were all – human and antelope – reacting to their presence. 

They set off running towards the impala, but the latter scattered like feathers in the wind – light and easy, and then they were gone. We had to leave soon after as dusk was becoming darkness again, but we will never forget those lions in the wind against the lightning-pink sky.

Nambiti Safari: Lion


Budapest is kinda stealing the Hungarian thunder. Don’t get me wrong, I love Budapest! Really, if you’re going to Hungary, it’ll be a carnal sin to miss out on this spectacular city (get some ideas here), but, believe it or not, there’s life outside of the architecturally ornate, romantically lit up Hungarian capital.

Besides spending one really unique week in Debrecen (as a member of a children’s choir at a international choir competition), I’ve never been to other parts of Hungary and have actually not even considered visiting. Until Joel did some research and suggested we head out to some natural hot springs west of Budapest. And what followed was a perfect weekend exploring a peaceful (and cheap!) corner of the world that we’ve never considered before but would now absolutely recommend.

Cycling around the countryside in Hungary


We hopped into a rental car on Friday afternoon, trying to miss traffic as best we can, and headed out of the city towards Kezsthely – a small town on the southwestern shore of Lake Balaton. The drive to Kezsthely is about two hours, and a full HALF of it is along this lake, because it is GINORMOUS. It’s very long (77km) and skinny, and is the largest lake in Central Europe – it’s can’t-see-the-opposite-shore kind of big. We heard from our local Budapest walking tour guide that locals call it the Hungarian Sea.

We headed out to eat the best meal of our Hungary trip (read on!) and settled into our perfectly cozy Airbnb (you have to stay here…), before we fell asleep watching Australia’s Next Top Model (the best way to fall asleep?).

What followed was a Saturday of doing exactly what you’d want to do in a sleepy little ‘seaside’ town – whatever it is you want at whatever pace you feel like. We hopped on our blue cruiser bikes, and cycled the town silly – along the shore, around the village, through the foresty parks, stopping here and there to take in the spots of sunshine, the sound of swans paddling around, and just that quiet and peaceful weekend feeling. It was the perfect antecedent to a day in Budapest, which was buzzing with the electricity of Christmas markets and a Chinese delegation (weird, I know, but people were a bit hyped up about this).

Lake Balaton - the Hungarian Sea

Cycling around the forests in Hungary

Lake Balaton

We love Keszthely!

We were there in November, so although the lake wasn’t frozen over yet, we did not brave the water…But it is a super popular local summer holiday destination, when the average water temperature is 25°C, so we may have to come back for a dip in summertime.


WINE! Lake Balaton has kind of a Mediterranean micro-climate, so it’s actually a wine region also. The winery near us was closed, so we didn’t get to go wine tasting, but maybe you could go out there and let us know what it’s like??


After getting our fill of countryside-cycling, we hopped in the car and drove the 15 minutes to Héviz, the teeny tiny town that gets its name from…wait for it…the world’s largest active geothermal lake! Lake Héviz is naturally replenished with hot and cold water from underwater springs every 72 hours, so the water is always fresh and never drops drops below 22°C. The temperature was around 25°C when we visited (but can get up to almost 40°C in summer), but I have to be honest and say that that doesn’t feel super warm when you have to go outside in your bathing suit when it’s like 10°C. However, the building is on stilts, so even though the water flows freely around and under the building, there are sections underneath that are insulated and actually nice and hot (think bathwater warm). But if you buy a combined ticket you can go in between the lake and the saunas and hot tubs in the attached spa area, which is kind of the ideal situation.

All in all, it was a pretty awesome, wonderfully unique, very eastern-european Saturday afternoon for the books! Really…get out of Budapest, and go to Lake Héviz! It is unlike any place we’ve ever been, in the best, coziest, most unfamiliar way possible. 

Lake Heviz


Remember your sandals! It’s not required, but just like the Budapest baths, it’s way more convenient if you have some!

Lake Héviz is perfect for swimming around lap-style. It’s very big and very deep (almost 40 meters!), there’s very little restriction concerning where you’re allowed to swim, and it’s not crowded.

BUT, if you’re feeling like floating around, it might be nice to bring a floaty of some sort – a tube or a pool noodle or something like that, to make your lake paddling a bit less tiring. There are wooden beams here and there that you can swim out to and hold on to, but they are a bit slippery.


Tickets are 2400 HUF for three hours (that’s almost €8), OR

2 600 HUF for four hours (almost €8.50), OR

3 700 HUF for the whole day (almost €12).

This is for the lake entry only, and does not include the Sauna World, which we’d recommend getting since it’s only a couple euros more. We had a three-hour ticket, and after figuring stuff out and changing and renting our towels and everything, we felt a bit rushed. Four hours would be ideal.

It’s a bit inconvenient, but the towel rentals are way out in the main building over the lake (a bit of a walk from the changing room, so we recommend bringing your own towel if possible). It’s 1000 HUF (plus 1000 HUF deposit). CASH ONLY! We did not have enough money but the poor towel girl allowed us to rent a towel with the random amount of money we could scrape together.

Do not expect the same English-speaking tourist friendly, decadently designed setting as the Budapest baths! Things are a bit more local, and the clientele is 80% 70-year-olds – there’s a rheumatic live-in clinic or something on site.

Co-ed locker rooms! This was confusing at first, but men and women all use one big locker room. Look for the changing cubicles staggered in between the lockers.

You need to validate your bracelet in order to get your locker. Ons you validate it, your timer is activated. You will then see similar little boxes against walls and pillars everywhere against which you can check your remaining time. We did not have to check out with our bracelets or anything, so the jury is out whether anyone is actually keeping track of your time.

Expect some nudity! Some seniors don’t really bother with the private changing cubicles, so you’re in for a treat.


We rented a car from Budapest, but you don’t have to. There’s also a bus service to Heviz, which takes just over 4 hours. Since we don’t ever drive in London, it’s always a treat for us to get out on the open road in a foreign place.


We visited mid-November, and we were probably just on the edge of it being too cold and too quiet. Any of the other seasons would be a great time to go – the colours in autumn, the blooms in spring, and the festivities and swimming in summer. 



We made a huge mistake.

And we are here to let you know not to make that same mistake.

Basically the biggest fail of our entire trip to Hungary, was NOT going to Jóbarát Vendéglö for dinner for BOTH of our nights in Kezsthely. Because DAYUM IT IS GOOD.

Don’t be fooled by the alluring ‘international cuisine’ or ‘BBQ nights’ of John’s Pub. Don’t even bother. Just spend all your time and money at Jóbarát Vendéglö.

Try some Hungarian wines and beers, the roast carp, the stuffed turkey, but most of all try the goulash with beans. OMG. Thank us later.


Keszthely is the perfect base for exploring the area and visiting Heviz. We sort of ended up here because the hotels in Heviz were disproportionately expensive and the Airbnbs were slim pickings. Lucky for us, because it lead us to Dora Holiday Housea super affordable Airbnb managed by Melinda, who is just one of the sweetest, most thoughtful Airbnb hosts out there. The apartment came with two bikes, and is just 2 minutes’ cycle away from the shore of the lake and the town market and coffee shop (very NB). Follow this link for a sweet discount on us! 🙂

Dora Holiday House

Joel and his two weekend whips in front of our cozy Airbnb in Kezsthely, Hungary


Whatever your heart desires. Cycle, stroll, and bring your euros to dispense some duck feed by the lake. Go wine tasting, go souvenir shopping, go geothermal lake dipping. Eat and drink and take it easy. And if you’ve had enough relaxing and unwinding and unplugging, go check out the local 18th-century palace, because, you know, Europe.

Keszthely Palace

The 18th-century Festetics Palace in Keszthely


We are just into the second week of 2018, and before this year runs away with us we want to share a review focusing on the positive superlatives of our year in travel. On NYE we posted a ‘Best of 2017’ review on some chronological highlights, but I’ve been inspired by one of my absolute favourite travel bloggers, Helene from heleneinbetween, to do a second one! I mean, who doesn’t love reminiscing about all their adventures? So for this travel year in review we are listing all the best things of 2017 – and, lucky for us, we get to double up because Joel and I are actually two separate people with separate interests and passions, believe it or not.

We have decided to not do ‘Best and Worst,’ superlative-wise, because…well honestly, we have had a really awesome year! Things that were frustrating or tiring were so contextual and minor (or just super common for all travelers) that it’s not really worth memorialising in our hall of fame. So here is a quick list of all the places and experiences that made our 2017 Travel Honour Roll:


The big one right off the bat – what has been our favourite trip of 2017, all things considered?

Annchen: CROATIA

Part of why this has been my best trip is that we flew out of London on the day my Art History Masters thesis was due, AND Joel had planned it all as a surprise, AND Croatia has been a major bucket list destination for me, AND we had the most incredible itinerary because of some killer tips given by some Croatian friends (copy our itinerary here). So after a month of complete and utter stress, I got to spend the last weekend of summer completely stress-free, with nothing to do but enjoy a place I’ve always wanted to go to with my favourite person in the world.

AND Croatia was even more amazing than I had anticipated!

Cavtat, Croatia

Cavtat, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Joel: Morocco

I was surprised by this one, but Joel’s overall favourite 2017 trip was Morocco. It makes sense, though – the perfect balance of a laid-back coastal weekend, the crazy hustle of the medina of Marrakech, and a mind-blowing bucket list experience of heading into the Sahara desert on camelback. The MVP here though was Essaouira, the underrated seaside city west of Marrakech, who also won another of Joel’s categories (read on!).

Marrakech, Morocco

The craziness of Marrakech

The blue boats of Essaouira


We’ve separated airbnbs and hotels, because they really are different animals. There are certain things that aren’t givens when you do a homestay or airbnb – like how easy it is to check in and out, cleanliness, how at home you feel, hospitality, and uniqueness. And we’ve had some great airbnb experiences this year: from a cozy snowed up cottage in Norway to a sleek city pad in Ottawa, but for both of us it has undoubtedly been the charming little house in Copenhagen that we stayed in when we went to the Haven Music Festival with our friends Crystal and Rob. I am pretty sure this is what hygge is all about:

Copenhagen Airbnb

Copenhagen Airbnb


Annchen: Ndaka Safari Lodge, KwaZulu Natal, South Africa

Shun me for my obvious answer, I don’t care, but spending two nights in a luxury safari tent with our bed, living room, gigantic bath tub and outdoor shower all facing the wild South African bush was just dreamy. Think waking up to roaming antelope, showering next to grazing buffalo, and soaking in the bathtub gazing at giraffe…and the chance of seeing bigger predators too.

Ndaka Safari Lodge, South Africa

Ndaka Safari Lodge

Joel: La Siesta Hotel Trendy, Hanoi, Vietnam

As the name implies, a super cool and trendy hotel in the middle of Hanoi. The rooms, the breakfast, the afternoon tea, the plush cocktails den, the view, but most of all the service – everything was better than perfect. And we really utilised this hotel – I had to write two essays in two days and doing it in the comfort of La Siesta Hotel Trendy was all the motivation I needed. So trendy – we were like 10% trendier after two nights in this place.

La Siesta Hotel Trendy, Hanoi


Speaking about Hanoi, we peaked early in 2017 when we had our best meal in an alleyway in Hanoi. We came upon a little restaurant that only serves Bun Sa and spring rolls – they fit about 6 customers, they serve you within 30 seconds, and they do not speak English. But hot damn, they can cook. Read more about it here.

Bun Sa in an Alleyway: Best Meal of 2017

Bun Sa in an Alleyway: Best Meal of 2017


Some strong contenders in this category – Budapest, Edinburgh, Dubrovnik, Hanoi, and also, our home base, London – we really got in our London groove this past year. But these two cities take the cake for us:

Joel: Essaouira, Morocco

What did I tell ya!? The laid-back atmosphere, the beautiful blue shoreline, incredible Moroccan food, and possibly the best seafood we’ve ever eaten (also runner-up for our best meal). Essaouira is commonly a day-trip kind of place from Marrakech, but we spent two nights here and could have stayed much longer. (Check out these 5 reasons you’ll love this city).

Essaouira, Morocco

Essaouira seafood, Morocco

Annchen: Lisbon, Portugal

We did not get to spend a whole lot of time here and I had no idea what to expect when we headed to Portugal for one night on our way back from Morocco to London, but I was just blown away by the little bit of Lisbon we did get to see. What a beautiful and colourful corner of the world – both aesthetically and atmospherically. It just felt easy to be adventurous and wonderful in Lisbon. Also, with all those Pastel de Natas going around it’s easy to fall in love with Lisbon.  And don’t even get me started on that peri-peri chicken…

Pastel de Natas in Lisbon

Lisbon, Portugal


We love going to concerts.

Well, no.

Joel loves going to concerts, and I enjoy them reluctantly.

Then one day Joel announced that Arcade Fire added two 1000-seater London shows to their European tour and they were giving away tickets – all you had to do was make some art and tweet it at them. I indulged Joel and spent a couple of hours making a stop frame animation, and, sure enough, we won tickets and went all in and it was INCREDIBLE. The whole band was set up on a boxing ring in the middle of a gym, with a small group of about a 1000 people on all sides. Everyone had front row seats, everyone was pumped, everyone walked out there soaking wet with sweat from having a good time.

Arcade Fire in London


Both Joel and I were deciding between the same two top contenders – kayaking in the mangroves in the Andaman and Nicobar islands, and riding camels into the sunset in the Sahara desert (though our South African safari and exploring Angkor Wat was up there too!).

Joel: Kayaking in the mangroves, Havelock Island, India

Havelock island is equal parts jungle, white sandy beaches, and wild mangroves that grow into the azure-blue Andaman Sea. We got to go kayak between these mangroves on our visit in November and it was a super cool experience! In the middle of our kayaking we could see a shower cloud moving towards us like a curtain, and then we heard it rumbling our way through the mangroves, and then it showered over us as we let our paddles rest, cooling down in the afternoon rain. It passed in a minute, and the sky was blue again and the water crystal clear. Such a special memory.

Kayaking in the mangroves

Annchen: Exploring the Sahara desert on camelback 

You can read more about the experience here, but basically it’s an indescribable, unforgettable bucket list adventure. Even thinking back on it seems like a surreal dream.

On camelback in the Sahara desert


We love hikes and we’ve had some really great hikes to choose from in 2017 – from a birthday hike in the Cambodian island-jungle to summiting the highest peak in Wales. But for Joel it has been our day of hiking on the Scottish island of Arran, when we had one glorious (and rare) sunny day hiking to waterfalls, ancient stone circles, and hilly views – chasing it all with some whiskey tasting in the afternoon.

Hiking Isle of Arran

Hiking Isle of Arran

For me it’s been trekking through the jungle on Havelock Island to get to Elephant Beach, which really surprised Joel. There were some real frustrating moments with slushing and slipping through thick post-monsoon jungle mud – but with the bright green jungle canopy (and the bright green snakes!), wading through the mangroves in the end, and finally ending up on the picturesque and remote elephant beach, I just had to make it my pick!

Hiking through the mangroves

I still can’t believe it’s already 2018, even as I look back on a year chock-full of adventure. And looking back on these has really made me excited for what’s to come – with a move to Berlin next week (!!!) we are ready to explore some more. Alright, that’s the last review post from our side, we promise, so from here on out we are looking 2018 right in the eyes and putting one foot in front of the other. Onwards! But where should we head to in 2018…???


We can almost not believe that it’s that time of year again – when we get to unashamedly look back at all the crazy and incredible things we got up to, and at the same time look forward to dreams of future adventures and resolution-related challenges (are we all mentally prepared for that 1st of January diet…?). And this year has been crazy and incredible! Twelve months flew by at a whirlwind rate – we traveled to 20 countries, and 11 of them were brand new for one or both of us.  We didn’t go to some places we really wanted to go to at the beginning of the year (but we’re coming for you soon, Japan!…fingers crossed), but we did get to check off some major bucket list stuff (keep reading!).

I love writing these posts! My favourite thing about travel blogging is re-living our adventures when I sift through all the memories and photos before each post. So doing that for a whole year’s worth of travel fills me with so much light and excitement – I’m ready to do it all over again! Last year we did the A-Z of our 2016 travels, but this time I will highlight just a couple of our best moments as they shaped our travels throughout 2017.


Travel tip: it’s not a bad idea to start your year on an island.

We woke up on the 1st of January in the little port town of Sihanoukville, Cambodia, picked up our backpacks and headed to one of Asia’s most beautiful and unspoilt, underdeveloped islands just 45 minutes from the coast: Koh Rong Samloem. We were graciously invited to join a Cambodian/Vietnam trip by some pretty cool friends of ours, Job and Kim (thanks for having us, guys!), and made a new friend (who we would later see again in Denmark).

There are no roads, no parties, and just one little hotel who managed to get wifi. We spent a week swimming, snorkeling, splashing around in the phosphorescence, and eating seafood and drinking beer. I even got to spend my birthday hiking through this paradise!

Best of 2017: Koh Rong Samloem island


Bucket list dreams do come true! After a week in tropical paradise, and two nights in the buzzing Cambodian capital, we headed to Siem Reap, which is one of the most beautiful and serene areas we’ve ever seen…which is also blessed with one of the world’s most inspiring religious heritage sites: Angkor Wat. We dragged ourselves out of bed at 4am, jumped on a tuk tuk to the Angkor complex, and witnessed the most beautiful sunrise of 2017. 

Best of 2017: Angkor Wat


After almost two weeks in Cambodia, we jumped on our flight to Hanoi where we would spend 2 nights before a flight back to London. Our flight back to London was also the due date for two long essays – one on African philosophy and one on Aesthetic Theory and Philosophy. I was supposed to do the bulk of my work before this flight…. Supposed to. I started writing the introduction to my first paper on the flight from Siem Reap to Hanoi. I wrote in the taxi all the way from the airport to the hotel. We ordered room service and I wrote until 4am. I woke up 2 hours later and continued writing. Finally, at about lunch time I finished my first paper. Joel forced me out of the hotel with something plugged into his Google maps, we walked a couple of blocks, and then abruptly stopped in front of what looked just like an alley way in between to buildings. ‘This is it,’ he said, and we sat down at the tiniest, smallest little aluminium bar. Within 20 seconds, a lady brought us two meals that we didn’t even order (because it’s the only thing they serve), and two cold beers. That Bun Sa in that alleyway in Hanoi was, hands down, the best meal we’ve had this year. And it powered me through to start and finish a whole new paper, handing in both essays with 2 hours to spare.

Best of 2017: Best Meal, Vietnam

This is where the magic happens


Not our first visit to the Arctic circle (we adventured around the indescribable Iceland last year), but definitely the most turbulent! We survived a road trip through a full on blizzard, and learnt a whole bunch of valuable lessons. Mostly we were blown away by the icy beauty of the northern parts of our earth, and the beautiful creatures that live there. A terrifying and awe-inspiring long weekend all at once. 

Best of 2017:Snowstorm

Pro travel tip: don’t do what we did. (Also, how is this a highway???)


April has been really good to me this year, because we got to go to Morocco! It has been on my bucket list since forever and I was so bummed that we couldn’t get to it last year when we moved to London – it’s only a couple of hours away! But we went in April, and we ate as much tagine as we could, and we took in as much of Marrakech’s craziness as possible, and we fell in love with Essaouira on the way, and then we were struck silent by the vastness and beauty of the Sahara desert

Best of 2017: Sahara desert


Every non-European’s dream: living the Greek island life. We finally got to do a one-week bucket list vacation when we got a sweet Airbnb on the dreamy greek island of Paros, where we explored ancient marble caves, meandered through tiny Cycladic villages, worked on our tan, and stuffed our faces with feta, olive oil, squid and the best gyros in town. AND we got to do it with our friends Chris and Erica, who are pretty much the best travel companions out there.

Then a quick but quite a grand treat for the history and heritage-site lover that I am: 2 nights in Athens and a visit to the ancient Acropolis. It’s been a good year for our bucket lists so far!

Best of 2017: Parthenon


How lucky were we that we caught one of Scotland’s only perfectly sunny days in July when we headed to the isle of Arran??? Our trip to the Scottish whiskey island was one of our shortest trips this whole year, but one of our most relaxing. Bleating sheep, waterfall hikes, meeting local travellers, whiskey, whiskey, and more whiskey. Definitely a travel highlight of year. The perfect weekend getaway waiting to happen.

Best of 2017: Isle of Arran


After a research trip in a packed and hot Venice in the middle of July, we were quite relieved when we stepped off the train in the Slovenian capital. We were on our way to Bled, a little lakeside town that we only knew about because my mom got engaged there a few years ago. So, we knew it was pretty…but we were not really prepared for the stunning scenery. Our jaws dropped at every corner – bright blue lakes framed by the Julian alps, with gushing waterfalls and springs running into the green valleys below. We fell in love with this magical fairytale place, like, I am sure, everyone does – it was one of those wholly underrated destinations that completely blew us away. We had so much fun swimming in the lakes and walking in the Vintgar gorge during summer, but we can’t wait to go back in winter when Lake Bled freezes over! Oh well, I guess we’ll put that on our revised bucket list!

Best of 2017: Vintgar Gorge

Best of 2017: Lake Bled, Slovenia


The day before my thesis was due I packed a backpack full of stuff not knowing what I was even packing for. Joel was surprising me and all I could do was hope I would be done with my thesis by the time we leave for the airport, and that we weren’t heading anywhere that I needed a visa for. We got as far as the boarding gate when it was revealed that we were going to Dubrovnik, Croatia! I was pumped. I have wanted to go to Croatia so desperately, and it was happening…AND we had so many awesome recommendations from our Croatian friends. And the Dalmatian coast just straight blew all our expectations out of the crystal-clear, azure-blue Mediterranean water.

Best of 2017: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Best of 2017: Mljet island, Odysseus cave, Croatia

A favourite travel moment of 2017: Getting to and jumping into the dazzling blue waters of the Odysseus cave on Mljet Island, Croatia.


Our London lease had come to an end in September, and we had decided that we want to try out Berlin for a little bit. But since we are only moving to Berlin in January, we moved out, put our stuff in storage, and went rent-free for a couple of months.  So after a quick family visit in California, and a stop at Shopify HQ in Ottawa, Canada (which turned out to be pleasant surprise), we headed to India to work and explore for nearly a whole month. We could not possibly express what an incredible and inspiring time this was. Apart from a weekend trip to Goa for Diwali, it was not the regular tourist-circuit India trip. We spent most of our time in the awesome city of Bangalore, exploring it and living it, and making new friends whose generosity and hospitality made this foreign country feel warm and familiar. From celebrating Diwali in Goa with cows on the beach, to an Indian safari in the Bandipur National Park, to a week on Havelock Island, a small piece of tropical heaven part of the Andaman and Nicobar islands, our time in India was full of highlights, all made more special by the people we met and friends we made. Now all I want to do is go back to Bangalore!

Best of 2017: Goa, India

A beach cow in Goa, India

Best of 2017: Bangalore, India

The super cool city of Bangalore, India

Best of 2017: Bandipur National Park, India

Indian safari in Bandipur National Park

Best of 2017: Havelock Island, India

The unspoilt beaches of tropical India somewhere between the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea.


Yes, Budapest is an incredible city – there’s no doubt about it (still don’t believe me? check this out). But did you know about the perfectly quaint little town of Keszthely on the shore of Lake Balaton – the largest lake in central Europe, aka ‘the Hungarian Sea’ – or the small spa town of Héviz that has the largest biologically active geothermal and medicinal lake in the world? It was a real treat to get away from all the hustle and pull of the big cities that we love and live in, and we felt so perfectly at ease in these tiny little countryside towns over one long weekend, riding our rusty cruiser bikes and dipping into that magic medicine lake with a bunch of old people while it’s freezing outside.

Best of 2017: Budapest, Hungary

Beautiful Budapest

Best of 2017: Keszthely, Hungary

Best of 2017: Heviz, Hungary

Dipping into the world’s largest active geothermal lake in Heviz


I’m gonna go ahead and say we have never looked forward to a trip as much as we looked forward to our two nights in Nambiti Reserve in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa. We very rarely book trips way ahead in advance, but ever since we booked it 6 whole months before we couldn’t wait to go! And we were not disappointed – coming face-to-face with an African elephant, watching as the dark shapes of two male lions approach our open vehicle in the darkness, seeing the whole animal kingdom become aware and responsive to their presence while a thunderstorm lights up the sky behind them, and all of those mid-drive sunsets with sundowners and sunrises with coffee and hot chocolate in the bush…what a way to top off our 2017! There is nothing like going on an African safari – it never ever gets old – and on top of that we stayed in a gorgeous luxury safari tent with a lounge, bed, bathtub and outdoor shower all facing the wild outdoors. Happy anniversary to us!

Best of 2017: South Africa

Best of 2017: South Africa

What a phenomenal year it has been! We traveled intentionally, spontaneously, and subjected ourselves to the plans of others; we traveled over weekends, long weekends, used whatever vacation breaks came our way, and maximised those unexplained yet widely loved UK Bank holidays to make the absolute most of this year! We traveled solo, together, with and to friends, and made new friends all over the place! We threw up over broken boats (ok, not ‘we’…maybe just me), nervously outlasted a blizzard in a rental car, and chased deadlines on planes (PTL for gaining 9 hours when you fly East to West on the day of your deadline). Through it all Joel worked full time (and actually visited 2 extra countries on work trips), and I obtained another Masters degree (and took suitcases full of books to more countries than my university’s library would like to know about).

And now we are at the doorstep of 2018, and we can’t wait for the new adventures ahead of us! Besides moving our base from London to Berlin, we don’t have that many things planned – 2018 is a blank canvas, and I’m so eager to see how our travels and experiences fill it in over the next 12 months. Upwards and onwards! What are you planning for the next year?